Life & Beyond : RAMNAGAR FORT: AN ACCIDENTAL DISCOVERY OF APATHY TO THE LEGACY OF HISTORICITY

Friday, 18 November 2011

RAMNAGAR FORT: AN ACCIDENTAL DISCOVERY OF APATHY TO THE LEGACY OF HISTORICITY

It was an accidental discovery of apathy by the stakeholders extended actively to the legacy of historicity.

While on Varanasi visit, en-route to the city from Mughalsarai, I had to take a detour from the normal connecting route via Rajghat Ganga Bridge after I found I could be trapped for hours in the choked mass of the vehicles if I went ahead. The alternative was taking the Ramnagar Bypass route circuiting Banaras Hindu University and Diesel Locomotive Works. Thought of the pontoon bridge at Ramnagar came to my mind given the reduced Ganga water level now. Another element working behind trying this option was enjoying the world famous Lassi of the Ramnagar Lassi vendor. This shop is at the corner of the approach road to the Ganga pontoon bridge at Ramnagar.

But taking a look at the Ramnagar Fort was not yet in my mind as it was a packed day and I had some other works to finish. To my dismay, on reaching I found the shop closed. Yes, I found the pontoon bridge already in its place there. But on the approach road I was informed that only two-wheelers were allowed as the assembling work was not complete yet. While coming back to take the NH-19, I thought I needed a refreshing tea. A local referred to a particular tea shop.

This particular tea shop was in front the main entry gate of the Ramnagar Fort. I ordered special tea and while waiting saw two cannons in dilapidated condition at the main door. A cursive look on the outer walls (cemented!) prompted me to see more of it.

Visiting Ramnagar Fort was in later part of my itinerary of this Varanasi trip. I had to assess its viability as venue for a future event. But the pathetic outdoor foreground pushed me to find some more time to look what the indoor midground had to offer.

The first impression while standing in front of the main door and looking on the surroundings was discouraging. Sleeping policemen on either side of the big wooden door of the Fort only added to the bad taste. Once inside, one can see how a historical place can easily lose it’s connect with the history. What I found is a sad story.

Bricks and mortars – this architecture is the first and foremost signature of the historicity of any Fort – something that is losing sheen here. Cemented walls, bushes and grass columns here and there, poorly kept gardens, pathetic pavements, uncultured policemen thronging the place – Ramnagar Fort is an apt example of the horrible mismanagement of a historical legacy.